Bjørn Nyland is sharing his feedback from real-world testing of a 87 kWh FWD Ariya.
Here's How The Nissan Ariya Performs In Winter
TL;DR:
Good:
The car handles well in snow/winter conditions for the most part. It's heavy.
The windshield defroster works very effectively.
At 90 kph (55mph), he got about 10% reduction in distance vs. what he got in summer. At 120 kph (75mph), he got about 5% reduction in distance vs. summer. The Arctic Circle video was part 1 so he didn't release total statistics, but the consumption shown for the legs in part 1 appeared to be similar.
Neutral:
Pre-heat the battery before getting to the fast charger in winter weather. Bjorn didn't and was limited to 40kW. He got 35kW with the battery dead cold in the morning, but found the battery heating wasn't added onto the draw from the charger, but used from the BMS's limit on the draw, which is sub-optimal. He said the Leaf does this too. With the battery heater option on, he still only got 72kW, and later got 85kW. It appears this was likely because he didn't give it enough time. On his arctic circle drive he left the battery heater on and got 96kW, and a little later around 100kW, and then back to 90kW. So, not bad, not great.
Bad:
The radar ends up blocked by snow/ice from the road A LOT. (Bjorn seems unaware, or at least doesn't mention, that you can long-press on the cruise to turn it on without the following-distance feature, but this is still annoying and good to know.)
The car lacks a mode that will maintain the cabin climate while charging with the car off so that one can walk away from it and come back to a comfortable cabin.
Good:
The car handles well in snow/winter conditions for the most part. It's heavy.
The windshield defroster works very effectively.
At 90 kph (55mph), he got about 10% reduction in distance vs. what he got in summer. At 120 kph (75mph), he got about 5% reduction in distance vs. summer. The Arctic Circle video was part 1 so he didn't release total statistics, but the consumption shown for the legs in part 1 appeared to be similar.
Neutral:
Pre-heat the battery before getting to the fast charger in winter weather. Bjorn didn't and was limited to 40kW. He got 35kW with the battery dead cold in the morning, but found the battery heating wasn't added onto the draw from the charger, but used from the BMS's limit on the draw, which is sub-optimal. He said the Leaf does this too. With the battery heater option on, he still only got 72kW, and later got 85kW. It appears this was likely because he didn't give it enough time. On his arctic circle drive he left the battery heater on and got 96kW, and a little later around 100kW, and then back to 90kW. So, not bad, not great.
Bad:
The radar ends up blocked by snow/ice from the road A LOT. (Bjorn seems unaware, or at least doesn't mention, that you can long-press on the cruise to turn it on without the following-distance feature, but this is still annoying and good to know.)
The car lacks a mode that will maintain the cabin climate while charging with the car off so that one can walk away from it and come back to a comfortable cabin.
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However, as he showed in his arctic circle trip, the car was able to charge while powered on. Might this allow you to leave it on with climate running, lock the door, and go to use the restroom, etc while it continues to charge?
He did sleep in the car with the climate running, so climate runs continuously. Maybe it's possible to leave the car, or one can hide the fob in a metal pouch/faraday bag, then lock the door with the key.
He was in the car though, with the fob, when he slept in it. Not sure how one could leave it on without also leaving the key. Although maybe leaving the fob in the car and locking it with the physical key would work... I think someone with a car would have to experiment with it to see what can work.
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