Only Read If You Have 12v Battery Issues..

3761 Views 50 Replies 11 Participants Last post by blackhammer, 1 mo ago

BLACK-PREMERE

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

7

Hello All,
I'm going to frequently post my battery readings for those that may have the same issue as me ( Traction Charging The 12v Battery Too Much Green Light ) and are monitoring there battery as well. It may help you determine if your 12v is ok or funky like mine. This is the device I'm using to take the readings:

Amazon.com: QUICKLYNKS Auto Battery Monitor BM2 Bluetooth 4.0 12V Device Car Battery Tester : Automotive

At one point.. I walked out to a Dead Nissan.. I decided to invest in a Jump Starter Unit just like a lot of Hyundai owners had to do with there vehicle's 12v battery issue.. just so I don't get stranded somewhere.. How Very Sad.. a one month old nissan with battery issues.. coming from 20 years of Toyota's and NEVER having an issue, I so regret this purchase. I'm at a point of feeling "What's Next?" on a vehicle that is 30 days old..

Anyway enough whinning..

I have to keep this thing running until such time I can move on from it.
So.. if you want to have something to compare your nissan to.. if you are also seeing the green charging light on a lot.. this is the thread to see what mine is doing for reference

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Very Strange Activity from 11.19 to 12: 54.. the vehicle had not been touched.. voltage climbs 3/10th of a %.. and jumps from 50% to 96% healthy.

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BLACK-PREMERE

Discussion Starter · #2 · 3 mo ago

6

Today's Final Report Card..

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Self Healing?
N-O-T. 😢

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lowlander

· #3 · 3 mo ago

BLACK-PREMERE said:
Today's Final Report Card..
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Self Healing?
N-O-T. 😢

Was the green light still flashing after 18:26? After (repeated) total discharge the battery can get messed up, might recover/might not (I'm sure you're aware) - too much lead sulfate on plates. Really bad that Nissan can't just swap out the battery to determine if this is the issue. They should be able to swap out one from a demo vehicle if they really don't have the parts.

smario259

· #4 · 3 mo ago

We had a connector around the battery that was connected to nothing. Found out that it was the current sensor connector. It goes besides the "-" battery terminal. Huh... I connected it back in. The dealer service team probably messed in this section. I measured the battery voltage, it was about at 11.9 volts. Bad feeling. Has the long trip from Japan depleted the battery and reduced its capacity under specs. I'll need to check that later on. I found that when the hood is open, there is no charging of the 12v battery. Has the hood stayed open for days in the dealer's garage? This was their first Ariya. Maybe for the sake of safety. If the car is turned on, then it should charge. I do not know how much current is drained from this battery when the car is off, but with a low trickle load, being under 12 volts is bad news. At twelve the battery has only about 10% of energy left in.
I turned the car "on", to its "ready" state. The charger kicked in. The battery voltage rose up to 14.5 volts. Oh oh, this is more than a lead-acid normally accepts. Is the battery dead open? After a while it went back to about 13.0 volts. This value is safe, but during a charge cycle this is a low value. A good trickle-charge current could bring the battery in the safe 13.8 volt ballpark. So far I did not find any information about the charge algorithm, that does not help at all to diagnose what's happening. I will keep the car in the "ready" state for a couple of hours. So far it seems to have stopped at around 13.0V. This is too low.
The battery is a group 140R.

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atreis

· #5 · 3 mo ago

smario259 said:
The battery voltage rose up to 14.5 volts. Oh oh, this is more than a lead-acid normally accepts.

This is within the normal range for bulk and absorption phases when charging a 12V lead-acid battery.

https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/3-stages-of-smart-chargers.html

EarlyEVadopter

· #6 · 3 mo ago

smario259 said:
We had a connector around the battery that was connected to nothing. Found out that it was the current sensor connector. It goes besides the "-" battery terminal. Huh... I connected it back in. The dealer service team probably messed in this section. I measured the battery voltage, it was about at 11.9 volts. Bad feeling. Has the long trip from Japan depleted the battery and reduced its capacity under specs. I'll need to check that later on. I found that when the hood is open, there is no charging of the 12v battery. Has the hood stayed open for days in the dealer's garage? This was their first Ariya. Maybe for the sake of safety. If the car is turned on, then it should charge. I do not know how much current is drained from this battery when the car is off, but with a low trickle load, being under 12 volts is bad news. At twelve the battery has only about 10% of energy left in.
I turned the car "on", to its "ready" state. The charger kicked in. The battery voltage rose up to 14.5 volts. Oh oh, this is more than a lead-acid normally accepts. Is the battery dead open? After a while it went back to about 13.0 volts. This value is safe, but during a charge cycle this is a low value. A good trickle-charge current could bring the battery in the safe 13.8 volt ballpark. So far I did not find any information about the charge algorithm, that does not help at all to diagnose what's happening. I will keep the car in the "ready" state for a couple of hours. So far it seems to have stopped at around 13.0V. This is too low.
The battery is a group 140R.

A fully charged healthy 12 volt battery with no load will typically measure somewhere between 12.6 -12.7 volts. So 13 volts is nothing to be concerned about. On the flip side if your battery was allowed to drain down to 11.9 volts as you described, it would not be is surprising to witness 14.5 volts or higher as it recharges since that voltage is within the normal charging rate. .
As an example, my coach has (3) 200 AH 12 Volt AGM batteries wired parallel that are maintained by a sophisticated high tech inverter - charger. Whenever my coach is connected to shore power or if I run my generator, the charging parameters begin charging as my battery voltage approaches 13.3 volts - and when my charger initiates at 13.3 volts, it’s not uncommon to witness a 14.6 volt charge rate until my batteries stabilize and eventually return to their fully charged state.

BLACK-PREMERE

Discussion Starter · #7 · 3 mo ago

7

The Nissan was not driven today at all..

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The dips get stronger and stronger..
Let's see what tommorw brings about a 20 mile round trip is planned..

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atreis

· #8 · 3 mo ago

Maybe I missed it, but have you tried just replacing the 12V battery?

Reactions: 1

PNWariya

· #9 · 3 mo ago

atreis said:
Maybe I missed it, but have you tried just replacing the 12V battery?

Agreed -- our 2019 Leaf had one that was bad after like two years. Bad 12v will cause all kinds of problems. I think this one is more like a case of infant mortality, bad right off the line.

BLACK-PREMERE

Discussion Starter · #10 · 3 mo ago

6

Another Sad Day..

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PNWariya

· #11 · 3 mo ago

BLACK-PREMERE said:
Another Sad Day..

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Sheesh. That must be so frustrating and disappointing. It's almost like it gets your hopes up, then crushes them!

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smario259

· #12 · 3 mo ago

It looks like the inverter pack is trying to prime/format the lead-acid battery (those 14.5V peaks) in hopes that the battery will recover. Apparently to no success.
Yesterday I charged the battery with an external power supply at 3 Amp-hour. The voltage went up to a more acceptable voltage of 14.2 within an hour. (three amp-hours to top it...) The negative connection was on the chassis ground, so the shunt was present. I was able to measure about 0.3mV; this makes sense if the shunt is a 0.1milliohm one as the PS was pushing 3 amps through it. Disconnecting the charger brought the shunt voltage to zero. This also showed that there was no load on the battery. Within another hour the battery voltage went down to 12.3. This is so odd.
I connected a Midtronics Battery tester to it. The CCA measurement was under 300A, plus a message asking to replace the battery. The OEM battery is a 420CCA. A third below spec, for a new battery. No good.
I suspect that the battery has not been taken care properly, during the very long production cycle of this first batch on North American cars. Some batteries recover correctly from a deep discharge, some other do not. I will ask the dealership to test this battery, at the same time that they will perform the steering wheel nut recall. I would not be surprised to read about a new recall, for this battery.
I haven't done long trips with it yet.

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Reactions: 1

BLACK-PREMERE

Discussion Starter · #13 · 3 mo ago

6

PNWariya said:
Sheesh. That must be so frustrating and disappointing. It's almost like it gets your hopes up, then crushes them!

LOL!!!
Hope?
I lost hope a long time ago.........
After 20 years of Toyota Camry's and a Rav4 Hybrid.. I Got Spoiled..

I ASSUMED that in 2023 if Hyundai / Kia could put out vehicles that win "Car of The Year" and get into the Top 5 of J.D. Power's Initial Quality ratings.. that, Nissan's were at least as good.
I've Had To Learn The Hard Way.. This is not the case.
There is a reason Toyota's sell more ICE units than any other maker.. I NEVER had issue with 4 Camry's and Rav4 that I've own for over the last 20 years..
30 Days just 30 Darn Days and I have a failed ( Needs to be put in the shop for repair ) Nissan.

THERE IS NO HOPE.

I just made the most Expensive mistake of my life making this purchase.
All I can do now is figure a way out..

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new2niss

· #14 · 3 mo ago

so, dealer replaced the battery and you still have issues?
how did you get those stats? just leave your battery monitor there? if not, you had to tinker with it every time?

BLACK-PREMERE

Discussion Starter · #15 · 3 mo ago

new2niss said:
how did you get those stats?

Yes.. by constantly monitoring.. I have no choice.

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atreis

· #16 · 3 mo ago

Have you replaced the battery?

KainDRG

· #17 · 3 mo ago

atreis said:
Have you replaced the battery?

Nope he refuses to even though it’s covered under warranty because he’s waiting for his precious Made in Mexico chevy ev. All of these posts are pointless bitching

Reactions: 2

PNWariya

· #18 · 3 mo ago

KainDRG said:
Nope he refuses to even though it’s covered under warranty because he’s waiting for his precious Made in Mexico chevy ev. All of these posts are pointless bitching

In fairness, the OP did title the post "only read if you have 12v battery issues"... I had an issue with the 12v on a Leaf, so I get to read! I know very little about the 12v so I find this thread educational. 😄. I want to get one of those cool app-based monitors, too!

smario259

· #19 · 3 mo ago

Black-Premiere was asking if anyone had similar readings, in order to compare. Apparently nobody else has done measurements. Since Nissan has not published data on what to expect in voltage readings, nor do they let us see the 12V battery voltage at the driver display in real-time (correct me if I am wrong), the readings obtained by BlackPremiere may look worrisome. But maybe not. The chart that he included in his comment #15 contains much information. I've seen things that seem in a similar ballpark, in my Evolve+. It would be great to know about more Ariya's batteries. Is this a normal pattern?
Meanwhile I disconnected mine, and am doing tests the analogic way since I can measure its performance without interference from the rest of the car.

KainDRG

· #20 · 3 mo ago

smario259 said:
Black-Premiere was asking if anyone had similar readings, in order to compare. Apparently nobody else has done measurements. Since Nissan has not published data on what to expect in voltage readings, nor do they let us see the 12V battery voltage at the driver display in real-time (correct me if I am wrong), the readings obtained by BlackPremiere may look worrisome. But maybe not. The chart that he included in his comment #15 contains much information. I've seen things that seem in a similar ballpark, in my Evolve+. It would be great to know about more Ariya's batteries. Is this a normal pattern?
Meanwhile I disconnected mine, and am doing tests the analogic way since I can measure its performance without interference from the rest of the car.

What’s the benefit of that? It’s covered under warranty and if it is not, it’s an inexpensive thing to replace

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