I will put in 6 AWG wire for a NEMA 14-50 outlet. That supports higher current in the future. For the 40 amp you can use thinner wire, but I figure the thicker wire will help keep temperature down due to lower resistance. Most wall mounted EVSE support higher charging than the Ariya accepts, so it won't max out the EVSE.
Wall box charger size /wiring
looking for information on wiring and charger size. I know the Ariya is going to pull 32 amps, so the 40 amp wall box should be acceptable. But wondering if over sizing the charger to 48 amps would mean better cooling and robust wiring.
Was originally going to go with 50 amp breaker with a 40 amp plug in unit. But I have some concerns of the plug connection not handling the continuous load.
what are others doing?
Was originally going to go with 50 amp breaker with a 40 amp plug in unit. But I have some concerns of the plug connection not handling the continuous load.
what are others doing?
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
My Model Y uses a Tesla wall connector at 48 amps / 11.5 kWh. The electrician used a 60 amp double pole breaker in the panel.
I plan to use the wall connector with the Ariya with the appropriate adapter to allow charging. The Ariya’s charger should regulate the charging speed to 32 amps. The wall connector’s power output can also be dialed down to 32 amps via the Tesla app if necessary as an alternative.
I would use a charger set up larger than 32 amps. You may need it if you have a different EV!
I plan to use the wall connector with the Ariya with the appropriate adapter to allow charging. The Ariya’s charger should regulate the charging speed to 32 amps. The wall connector’s power output can also be dialed down to 32 amps via the Tesla app if necessary as an alternative.
I would use a charger set up larger than 32 amps. You may need it if you have a different EV!
Retired:
Yes, the J1172 standard calls for the OBC to determine charge rate. The EVSE only offers its max and the OBC goes from there.
ab13:
nice choice for a 14-50. If you went to SEr instead of romax you could use that to 60 amps for a future charger. Just saying...
OP:
if you use commercial receptacles a 14-50 is fine @ 40 amp continious. Make sure you follow code on the wire! Lots of folks don't appreciate that the wire is intended as a heat sink for the receptables and the breaker. Receptacle problems usually come from guys using romex and cheap/box store or worse receptacles. Don't forget to align your breaker temperature rating as well!
Personally I've got 30 amp breaker in place and will use that at 24 for now. Plenty of charge rate. I will, when I get a sense of my need, upgrade to a 60 amp circuit using #6 SER.
No way I'd put in less than a properly designed 60 amp circuit it I as paying to have it done.
Yes, the J1172 standard calls for the OBC to determine charge rate. The EVSE only offers its max and the OBC goes from there.
ab13:
nice choice for a 14-50. If you went to SEr instead of romax you could use that to 60 amps for a future charger. Just saying...
OP:
if you use commercial receptacles a 14-50 is fine @ 40 amp continious. Make sure you follow code on the wire! Lots of folks don't appreciate that the wire is intended as a heat sink for the receptables and the breaker. Receptacle problems usually come from guys using romex and cheap/box store or worse receptacles. Don't forget to align your breaker temperature rating as well!
Personally I've got 30 amp breaker in place and will use that at 24 for now. Plenty of charge rate. I will, when I get a sense of my need, upgrade to a 60 amp circuit using #6 SER.
No way I'd put in less than a properly designed 60 amp circuit it I as paying to have it done.
I just reviewed my quote and it is 4/3 Black Stranded CU W/G, so I guess actually 4 AWG. I forgot that I asked him to support 48 amp EVSE hardwired in the future if needed. I only want to have it run one time.ab13:
nice choice for a 14-50. If you went to SEr instead of romax you could use that to 60 amps for a future charger. Just saying...
Does anyone know if a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) should be installed for a 220V outlet for dedicated use of the EVSE box supplied with the 2023 Ariya? I was considering installation of a Charge Point home charger (Home Flex, 16A-50A Flexible Amperage Charger) and the installation instructions specifically said NOT to install a GFI circuit. While I'd usually say better safe to install a GFI, if there is already a GFI in the box then it might not work well with a second GFI in series.
Any 120Volt GFI circuit installed in a garage or carport is considered by most electricians a nuisance at best. Unfortunately for 120 volt receptacles located in bathrooms, kitchens laundry, or garage/carports, GFI’s are now required by the National Electrical Code. The intention behind any GFI circuit is so the end user is protected in the event that an appliance, or electrical cord were to somehow get immersed into a pool to water. The biggest down side to any GFI circuit is that they are quite sensitive and often trip prematurely. Regardless I am not aware if a GFI is even an option for an EVSE application. However, it GFI was available for an EVSE circuit, I would avoid one at all costs. Unless of course you don’t mind having your charging session interrupted periodically for no reason other than an ultra sensitive GFI circuit.Does anyone know if a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) should be installed for a 220V outlet for dedicated use of the EVSE box supplied with the 2023 Ariya? I was considering installation of a Charge Point home charger (Home Flex, 16A-50A Flexible Amperage Charger) and the installation instructions specifically said NOT to install a GFI circuit. While I'd usually say better safe to install a GFI, if there is already a GFI in the box then it might not work well with a second GFI in series.
I just read your post again and it is a bit confusing. If you are wiring this yourself and haven’t done much or any wiring before I suggest you either get some help or watch many YouTube videos on electrical wiring. ie your post suggested installing a gfi circuit in series?Any 120Volt GFI circuit installed in a garage or carport is considered by most electricians a nuisance at best. Unfortunately for 120 volt receptacles located in bathrooms, kitchens laundry, or garage/carports, GFI’s are now required by the National Electrical Code. The intention behind any GFI circuit is so the end user is protected in the event that an appliance, or electrical cord were to somehow get immersed into a pool to water. The biggest down side to any GFI circuit is that they are quite sensitive and often trip prematurely. Regardless I am not aware if a GFI is even an option for an EVSE application. However, it GFI was available for an EVSE circuit, I would avoid one at all costs. Unless of course you don’t mind having your charging session interrupted periodically for no reason other than an ultra sensitive GFI circuit.
YOUR EVSE CIRCUIT MUST BE A DEDICATED 230/240 volt CIRCUIT and will require a minimum (4 ) #8 gauge wires (including ground wire) ie (2) line voltage wires connected to a tandem 40 amp breaker which will connect to (2) separate buss bars in your main panel. Then (1)neutral wire will extend and connect to a dedicated neutral bar in your panel. The final ground wire will connect to the grounding lug or ground bar in your panel. This illustration is if you are preparing for a 40 amp circuit breaker. If you are wiring for a 50 amp circuit the wiring gets bigger as does the circuit breaker. If none of this makes sense, please seek some help!
Thank you for your reply EarlyEVadopter. What you say does make sense to me. What I meant by "in series" is that I think the EVSE box MAY already have in it an overload protection that serves the same purpose as a GFI circuit, ie fast power cutoff to protect the user. The installation will be by a licensed (MA) electrician. The NEMA 14-50R receptacle will be located a corner of my garage, near the car entrance door. It will sometimes be used to charge a car inside the garage, sometimes the car will be outside the garage. I do worry that the GFI might be problematic, but as you noted GFI's seem to be required for garage installations. So I think I may have to try (with GFI circuit installation) and see how it goes.I just read your post again and it is a bit confusing. If you are wiring this yourself and haven’t done much or any wiring before I suggest you either get some help or watch many YouTube videos on electrical wiring. ie your post suggested installing a gfi circuit in series?
YOUR EVSE CIRCUIT MUST BE A DEDICATED 230/240 volt CIRCUIT and will require a minimum (4 ) #8 gauge wires (including ground wire) ie (2) line voltage wires connected to a tandem 40 amp breaker which will connect to (2) separate buss bars in your main panel. Then (1)neutral wire will extend and connect to a dedicated neutral bar in your panel. The final ground wire will connect to the grounding lug or ground bar in your panel. This illustration is if you are preparing for a 40 amp circuit breaker. If you are wiring for a 50 amp circuit the wiring gets bigger as does the circuit breaker. If none of this makes sense, please seek some help!
Ok -good to know. 👌Thank you for your reply EarlyEVadopter. What you say does make sense to me. What I meant by "in series" is that I think the EVSE box MAY already have in it an overload protection that serves the same purpose as a GFI circuit, ie fast power cutoff to protect the user. The installation will be by a licensed (MA) electrician. The NEMA 14-50R receptacle will be located a corner of my garage, near the car entrance door. It will sometimes be used to charge a car inside the garage, sometimes the car will be outside the garage. I do worry that the GFI might be problematic, but as you noted GFI's seem to be required for garage installations. So I think I may have to try (with GFI circuit installation) and see how it goes.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Nissan Ariya Forum
AriyaForums.com - Nissan Ariya Forum, Community And Owner's Club
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
